Bar & Restaurant Reviews
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Bandits’ Grill & Bar
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Casa Oaxaca
Oaxaca, Mexico
Giorgio's Restaurant
Portland, OR
Der Lindenbaum
Fredericksburg, TX
Pete's Tavern
New York, NY
Casa La Femme
New York, NY
Remote Lounge
New York, NY
Olde Nawlins Cookery
New Orleans, LA
Olde Nawlins Cookery
729 Conti Street
New Orleans, LA
504.529.3663
It's impossible not to cheat in New Orleans. I don't know what it is about this town that inspires such deliciously sinful behavior in people... okay, in me, but every minute I'm here there's no time to waste and I need to be eating, fucking, or both. And if my "better half" is going to insist on spending his days at work I can't be held accountable for my actions.

I do my cheating at lunch — my baby takes the mornin' train and all that — so I need to be done by evening. And that's why I love Olde Nawlins Cookery at lunch time. The locals think it's a quaint French Quarter family restaurant for tourists so they don't give it a second glance, and it's best that they don't as there are times a guy needs his privacy. The tourists, on the other hand, assume this is a local dive and move on in search of Hard Rock McShitbags or whatever the fuck it is tourists look for. Either way this arrangement works great for me — the place is quiet and I get my table in the back by one of the big french windows so I can see who's coming and going on Conti Street.

The food here is awesome for a little family-run joint. The building also has its charms, like a lot of buildings here in the French Quarter it's old — 160 years at last count. The atmosphere is what I like to call neo-secluded. Centrally located yet off the beaten path. Friendly service that minds its own business. I get what I want and nobody bothers me.

My usual is the bowl of red beans and rice ($5.75). The beans are creamy and stewed with cajun spices, ladled over a bed of white rice, and served with grilled andouille sausage and homemade cornbread. I'm not usually a big sausage fan but this is really the place to get it. Mixed in with the beans and rice, the sausage becomes part of a rich, creamy stew with complex flavors. The perfect complement for this dish is a bottle of Blackened Voodoo Beer ($4), which is dark and smooth and goes great with those fine cajun spices.

I've been by the Olde Nawlins Cookery a few times, let's just say I had to do something all those hot mornings, and also had success with their Cajun sausage jambalaya ($6.25) — a perfect balance of moist but not clingy, which is just the way I like... Jambalaya, and also the Creole Mustard Chicken ($6) — a great original recipe, interesting and flavorful, and spicy and sexy and blonde. Blonde-colored mustard.

So les mecs, if you've got something cookin' and you don't want nobody sniffing around the pot before it's done, dive into Olde Nawlins Cookery for a quick bite before your main event.
chumwater
January 5, 2002
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