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Aix Denver, CO |
Los Danzantes Oaxaca, Mexico |
Asia de Cuba West Hollywood, CA |
The Sanctuary New York, NY |
Ghenet New York, NY |
Moustache New York, NY |
Lemongrass Grill New York, NY |
Steak Frites New York, NY |
Caffe Taci New York, NY |
Sammy’s Noodle Shop & Grill New York, NY |
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| Lemongrass Grill |
80 University Place New York, NY 212.604.9870 |
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[Disclaimer: there are a total of seven Lemongrass Grills in New York and the University Place location may not be representative, but since I wasn't about to break up with my ex every day for a week you'll just have to make do.]
University Place was teeming with N.Y.U. students the night we went to Lemongrass Grill, and we had to fight our way through gangs of aimless youths to enter the restaurant. We then spent about 15 minutes in the LG's crowded, cramped waiting area, dodging departing customers and takeout orders. When we finally reached our table, we were greeted by neighboring diners inches away from either arm, while my chair was repeatedly bumped by waitstaff squeezing through the aisle.
So before I had even seen the menu or considered an appetizer I was tense, frustrated, and about one more inadvertent elbowing or bumped chair away from punching a stranger in the throat - and now I was supposed to calmly look my soon-to-be-ex in the eye and rationally explain why it would be better if we stopped seeing each other? I briefly considered rushing through the meal and postponing the dumping, but decided that a bad breakup would be better than no breakup at all, ordered a bottle of Singha beer (a Thai beer, not particularly tasty) and soldiered on.
I decided to wait until after the appetizers to begin the breakup. This turned out to be a wise decision, as the appetizers were far more interesting than the main courses. I enjoyed the hot and sour lemongrass soup with shrimp and mushrooms and a simple salad, while my vegetarian companion and I shared a plate of spicy summer rolls. Our enjoyment of our main courses may have been negatively influenced by the increasingly unpleasant conversation, but my phad thai with chicken certainly wasn't among the better examples I've had of this simple dish, and I noticed that my companion was quarantining a high percentage of vegetables away from her wide, spicy noodles dish.
The service, it should be said, was excellent. Obviously, they were going for a fast turnover, but achieved this without making us feel rushed. As for the atmosphere, while the restaurant's density continued to be an issue, we were at least not without distractions. At the point in the breakup when we could no longer make eye contact she was able to focus on a large tank filled with interesting fish, while I had a view of the open kitchen. In this way we were able to pass the brief time waiting for the check, after which we struggled out onto the street, and then went our separate ways.
Overall, the evening went better than I expected after an extremely unpromising beginning, so the Lemongrass Grill might be suitable if you have your heart set on Thai and can arrange a midweek breakup. |
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| Guy Sterling |
| October 4, 2002 |
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