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Aix
Denver, CO |
Los Danzantes
Oaxaca, Mexico |
Asia de Cuba
West Hollywood, CA |
The Sanctuary
New York, NY |
Ghenet
New York, NY |
Moustache
New York, NY |
Lemongrass Grill
New York, NY |
Steak Frites
New York, NY |
Caffe Taci
New York, NY |
Sammy’s Noodle Shop & Grill
New York, NY |
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Your first few minutes inside will inspire little dread or sense of foreboding in your guest. The dining room is bright and cheery, with a high ceiling and plenty of open space. Befitting the name, Steak Frites presents a light French theme, though the bistro décor and waitstaff uniforms may inspire unwelcome thoughts in your soon-to-be-ex of how you'd promised to visit Paris together in the Spring.
Sitting down you realize that the seemingly open space is deceptive, as many of the tables, especially the tables for two, are uncomfortably close together, so that every word of our conversation could be clearly heard by the three surrounding sets of patrons. Several times during the meal, in fact, I needed to repeat myself after being drowned out by our neighbors' discussion. While I suppose this embarrassing proximity could possibly serve as a deterrent to somebody who may consider causing a scene, it will be a problem if you know for a fact that your guest will definitely cause a scene at some point. In any event, this expanded audience had the effect of throwing me off my game, forcing me to abandon several carefully rehearsed speeches in mid-justification.
Fortunately, there was a full bar available, though in continuing the French theme there was an emphasis on red wine, the sugar-in-the-gas-tank of simple breakups. Two-thirds-of-a-bottle later any hope of rationality was gone, as our conversation careened downhill for nearly half-an-hour until our (actually quite good) entrees arrived together, the waitress having ignored my earlier request to "bring each one out as it's ready" in the hope of buying at least one more interruption. This was part of her apparently intended and entirely unwanted effort to avoiding bothering us during our increasingly emotional conversation, one that continued up until the check was mercifully delivered.
In short, despite its other fine qualities Steak Frites is simply unsuited for any kind of quick-and-easy breakup. The only positive quality is its location, less than a block away from the always-busy Union Square and numerous subway lines, perfect for avoiding any post-breakup lingering. I only needed to endure a minute or two more of tearful recriminations and awkward lies about staying friends before I disappeared into the crowd and down the station steps. |
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| Guy Sterling |
| August 23, 2002 |
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